wood bleach application with the mop for LiteniT Part A

LiteniT Instructions Flooring

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  • USE GLOVES & EYE PROTECTION
  • STORE IN A COOL PLACE AWAY FROM HEAT AND DIRECT SUN
  • DO NOT RETURN UNUSED PORTION OF PART B TO ORIGINAL CONTAINER
  • DO NOT MIX WITH OTHER CHEMICALS
  • KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
  • DO NOT USE IN CONFINED SPACES WHERE THERE IS NO AIR FLOW

Please read and follow these instructions carefully to obtain the best result.

All wood flooring may be bleached with LiteniT. Including engineered floors that have at least a 3mm veneer top layer.

Sanding: All floors need to be sanded back to bare wood free from coatings, sealers, oils & waxes with standard floor sanding procedures ending on a 120 grit screenback.

Topnailed floors must be nail punched first and a waterproof filler is required for nail holes or butt joins in floors. The existing filler will be the wrong colour match for the bleached wood.  Water-based fillers like timbermate will get blown out of the holes as they absorb the mix. Some form of epoxy-like filler is needed so that it is waterproof and won't crack and fall out.

Highly recommended with top nailed floors as the rust from nails will cause the black ferrous stains around the nail holes.

We use a mix of solvent-based polyurethane and cornice cement. Do not use water-based or oil-based polyurethanes for this mix as it won't work. Use one similar to Polycure Durapol 1044 or from Bunnings the only one is the Bondall Monocel marine varnish.

It makes a creamy color which will suit most timbers. Some older and dark Jarrah floors may need a very small amount of Raw Umber paint tint in the mix to make it a bit darker.
This way, any cracks, nail holes, butt joins, etc. are waterproof.
You can punch out your floor then fill. when it's dry, which will take a few hours, sand the floor as normal.
Most of the time with top-nailed floors we trowel fill the mix as it's faster. This is a must when preparing block parquet for bleaching. If you don't fill up all the gaps in the blocks you will have black stains appearing after a water-based finish is applied.

Bleaching process

Part (A) is the activator. Its job is to pull the tannin and natural colour from the wood to the
surface. So expect the wood to go darker in colour when Part(A) is applied.
Application:
Use a brush to cut in around the edges and corners and a string mop and bucket to apply as if you were washing the floor. Pump sprayers (weed sprayers) may be used as well.

Don’t miss any spots and wipe over any areas that have pooled with the product. Allow the’ surface to mostly dry before applying Part (B). It does not need to be bone dry and don't leave any longer than 24hrs as it will start to weaken.You will notice rather quickly as the tannin is drawn out,
The colour change can be quite dramatic depending on the species of wood.

wood bleach application to edges by brush LiteniT Part A
cut in Part A. with a brush
wood bleach application with the mop for LiteniT Part A
use a string mop and bucket to apply Part A.

Part (B) Be careful with Part (B) as it is a strong oxidizer and will burn your skin. If your skin comes into contact with Part (B), rinse well with fresh cold water. The white marks will disappear in a few hours.

Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection around bleaches. Where possible, try to have windows and doors open for airflow. Confined spaces will require a respirator to be worn as the strong oxygen from the reaction can irritate the sensitive membranes in the eyes, nose and throat. Similar to swimming in a pool with high-level chorine.

When you have completed Part (A), go back to where you started as it may be dry enough to start Part (B).

Cut in around the edges and corners with a synthetic brush as a natural bristle will be destroyed. Be sure to apply plenty of product. A medium house broom and a rectangular bucket are ideal for applying Part B as it works just like a big brush. Again, apply plenty of product and work it in with the edges so as not to miss anywhere. Try to keep to a spread rate of 10m2 per litre.

Application of Part (B) starts to bleach the wood fibers, almost immediately. You may notice some fizzing & foaming from the reaction (Brushbox) and the color changing rather quickly. This is normal. The color may look yellowish as the wood is wet. This will change once the wood is cleaned and dry.

Once you have completed the application of Part (B), go back to where you first started and have a look around to see if there are any missed spots or dark patches and broom in some more Part (B). It will be visually obvious where it is not bleaching properly so apply some more.

 It's good practice to broom over the whole floor area again to work in the product and help even things out. Just make sure you broom over your footprints as you walk out.

After an hour, if you can see the edges are lighter than the body of the floor, this means there is not enough part (B) applied to the body. So apply some more.

Some species of timber, for example, Tas Oak, Blackbutt, American & Euro Oak will have various amounts of certain boards develop a yellow look to them. When this occurs, apply some of Part(A) over them with a brush and leave it to work to remove the yellow.

At least 3 hours after the Part (B) is applied and you are satisfied with how even the bleaching is, the floor may be washed.

If you intend to bleach twice in the case of Merbau and some dark Jarrah floors, then you can leave it overnight and just repeat the process.

Black mould stains discovered when walls or cabinets are removed, will not sand out. They will bleach out with LiteniT. During the normal process of bleaching, you just need to hit those dark stains a few extra times with parts A&B consecutively until they go.

Cleaning/Neutralizing

Your next and very important step in the process is cleaning the wood surface to remove all the tannins, extractives & residues from the bleaching process. No coatings or finishes (in particular water-based) will not stick or cure on the surface without cleaning. Use LiteniT wood cleaner in the water on the First Wash for neutralizing and removing tannin & ferrous stains. Mix with water in a mop bucket at a ratio of 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 and apply a coat of it over the floor without drowning it. Use a brush to get close to the edges and corners.

Second Wash Rinse out your mop and bucket first. Now, with fresh water in the bucket, wring out the mop and clean up off the floor all the residue. Stopping every 20m2 or so to refresh the water as you will see it gets rather dirty. Or a floor scrubber if you have access to one. Then do the edges by hand with a microfibre cloth to get in close to skirting and corners. For Decks, use a stiff broom and the water hose. 

Once the wood is dry from cleaning, this is the level of bleaching achieved. Once the job is clean and you notice some missed spots, just apply some more Part(B) with a brush. Leave for 60-90 mins, then clean these spots as before and allow to dry.

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